Tuesday, 21 July 2015

Oozing passion... By love, for love, of watches

Thanks to industrialization, we can now enjoy quality goods at a fraction of the cost otherwise made the traditional way. The ever improving speed, efficiency and tolerance in manufacturing enable precision materials to be produced at large scale, maximizing the economies of scale in production, and benefiting end customers in cost and availability. The flip side of it is, everything looks like everything else, and everyone has what everyone else have. There is no problem to this in true honesty, and I think what it means is that the quality of life has improved in general through the industrial revolution.

However, I guess it is in human nature, there is a snob in all of us. As we climb the Maslow hierarchy of needs; as our physiological, security and loving needs are met, we long to be esteemed. I'm not saying that everyone is a show-off, but rather, everyone of us like the feeling of being appreciated, respected and honored for what we've done and contributed in our own unique way. Be it pampering ourselves for our achievements, or as a display of social status arrived, many at this level of needs choose material possessions that represent their uniqueness and personality, or so they thought.

It is precisely because marketing geniuses around the world recognize this human mentality, that's why the tsunami of limited editions of all things expensive, particularly watches. It is almost a social norm in many cultures to judge a person's success with what they wear on their wrist; what better way of demonstrating that than a luxury limited edition that conveys taste and high society standing? Except that these limited edition comes in hundreds, and in some cases, by the thousands. I have to admit, I am a sucker for these things of subtle variation with those words and numbering on their cases. The "saving grace" if I may, is my limited resources to these unlimited wants.

As I dig deeper into the quest for that ultimate grail watch, if I ever have the means to own one, I begin to see past the temptation of limited editions from big brand names. Independent watch making, where the watch is conceptualized, design, manufactured, assembled and tested by one person; Hand making each and every component from the most basic of materials, is watch making in its truest and finest form.

Phillipe Dufour's Grande et Petite Sonnerie

Every gear tooth, every chamfer, bevel and decoration was
hand crafted and polished to perfection with basic (traditional) tools
by Phillipe Dufour

Famed by his creation of the best sounding skeletonized Repetition Minutes Grande et Petite Sonnerie, Phillipe Dufour is one of the few grandmasters in world of horology. His creativity, skills, patience and passion in watch making is unparalleled. Taking anywhere from months to over a year to final completion, his creation can only be achieve by immense love for what his is doing; bringing metals to life with the first heartbeat of its balance wheel.

Masters of Time: Independent Watch Makers
featuring 'Phillipe Dufour' and 'Antoine Preziuso'
showcased their fine art of master watch making

Even when the hand polished to perfection cases does not bare the words and numbering of limited edition, each design is definitely limited to a few, if not one unique piece. Tote by a inconspicuous name on the dial, which only few would recognize, a masterpiece made by one of these grandmasters in the watch making fraternity is definitely the epitome of class and fine personal taste in my opinion. It is my hope that you'll take notice of some of these gems the next time you're considering an addition to your collection. Not only will you be acquiring a bragging right, but a heirloom that carries and hopefully, help preserves and extend the history and art of fine watch making for generations to come...

Friday, 10 July 2015

Enduring Crush (Part I)

It was love at first sight for the Citizen Pro-master Windsurf D120. Though another digital sports watch, it doesn't hint the toughness of G-Shock at all; it wasn't clad in shock dampening resin, neither did it claimed a higher water resistance. 2 major differences I can spot were the bi-directional rotatable bezel that allow windsurfing race course angle alignment, and a wind velocity conversion rule, which were of no use to me. Guess that's the miracle and fallacy of love sometimes.

360 degrees bi-directional rotatable bezel

Velocity conversion: meter per sec./wind knots

It may be a fallacy of how it was chosen, but how it survived along with me through the next 5 years is truly a miracle.

January 1993, I was enlisted for National Service. In Singapore, every male citizen who has completed high school (Junior College/ Polytechnic in Singapore's context) or reaches the age of 18, will need to serve 2.5 years (2 years now) in the military. Training begins with 3 to 5 months of basic military training (BMT) depending on the fitness of individual. After which, enlistees will be posted to various vocation/specialization within the military for further training to be a full fledged soldier, and be deployed to fulfill the remaining duration of service.

I wasn't gifted physically, and I went into National Service with a chronic cough. I had to push myself real hard just to keep up with the training. As one of the weaker trainee, I was given lots of extra sessions, which didn't help the recovery of my irritable lungs. My cough turned from bad to worse till I witnessed traces of blood in my phlegm during my morning wash-up one day. I braved the sickness and continued with training; field camps (where we were taught to dig trenches for defense and lived in basha tents), 16 & 32km road marches, live firing ranges, SOC (Standard Obstacle Course) and battle inoculation courses, I've completed them all.

BMT Field Camp

Battle Inoculation Course

2.5 months into BMT, just when we're ready to take a slew of final tests to certify our competence as a soldier, I fell flat onto the tarmac during one of the passing-out-parade practice; literally, passed out. When I gained consciousness, I recall having my gears taken off me with surrounding medics. One of them declared my blood pressure was 70/50 with high fever, and I was taken to the medical center immediately. It was a Friday, and we were supposed to 'book-out' that evening to spend the weekend out of camp. The medical officer whom I consulted wasn't convinced that my illness was genuine and chronic, insisted that I should stay in the medical center till my fever subsides. He prescribed paracetamol along with some common cough syrup and sent me to an available bed.

Every hour, the medic on duty will take my temperature. It was a straight line 39 degrees Celsius ever since I was admitted, and there were no signs of improvement with rest and medication. As if things couldn't get worse, I was asked to perform toilet cleaning duties using antiseptic detergent. The fumes given out by the detergent's reaction with water choked me so badly; if not of me squatting down when I sensed that I was 'greying out', I would have lost my consciousness, again. I knew I had to find a way to get myself out for a proper treatment.

I timed the medic's visits, rinsed my mouth with cold water prior, in the hope to "lower" my temperature. It was a fine balance; too cold will give away my trick and risk punishment, and otherwise, will not get me what I wanted. I choose to err on the safe side. 1st try, 38.7 degrees C. 2nd try, 38.0. 3rd try, 37.6; all accomplished using my D120 to time the duration of cold water in my mouth, and the lapse time from that to each medic's visit. 5th try, 36.9! I nailed it! 3 subsequent measurements of 37, I was given the green light to discharge by the medical officer.

Just when I thought I'm on my way home that Saturday morning, I'm presented yet another challenge. It is mandatory to book out of camp in 'smart 4' (a full camouflage uniform with folded sleeves), but I was in 'PT kit' (T-shirt and shorts) during my stay in the medical center, I wasn't allowed to leave the camp. Bunks were locked and completely vacated.

I ran around looking for the officer on duty, hoping that he keeps the keys to our bunk, only to discover that he is only responsible for the general offices and common areas. Those keys to the bunk were under the safe keeping of our company's officers, whom by then, have all left the camp. I resorted to finding among those who are staying back on guard duties, someone who is of similar size as me, and beg for his spare uniform. One of them was kind enough to lend me his after hearing my story. He even gave me some coins in case I have to call my family when I'm out of camp. Yes, I did not have a single cent with me, and mobile phones (also known as 大哥大) back then were reserved for the privileged few. Public coin phones were still the main mode of "mobile" communication. I couldn't recall the name of this kind gentleman, but his grateful deeds will always be remembered.

Pulau Tekong, 2BTS (2nd Basic Training School) was where I did my BMT. It is an island North-East of Singapore, reserved primarily for military training. I was in Camp 1, approximately 3km from the only jetty anyone can be ferried back to mainland Singapore. Under the scorching sun, my fever must have peaked. I marched in quick steps and a heavy heart.

I can still recall so vividly, the scene of the island disappearing smaller and smaller as I was being ferried away from it on a bumboat. Uncontrollable tears dwelled in my eyes, a tinge of self pity from my struggles out of malignant.

Bumboat from Pulau Tekong to Changi Jetty

I told my dad what happened briefly over the phone, he appeared in person soon after, and rushed me straight to the hospital where I was diagnosed with pneumonia after a chest x-ray. I was admitted immediately, and spent the next 5 days in the ward, under antibiotic drips and phlegm extraction procedures.

When I got back to camp, I did the SOP (Standard Ops Procedure) to have my medical certificate endorsed. Seeing the medical officer (MO) again, he gave me that smirk look of disbelief followed by a slew of criticism. That was the Singapore Armed Forces then, and I do not resent the MO; because of their experience with many enlistees finding ways and means to get themselves medically excused from training and ultimately, excused from the Army altogether, that's why their behavior...

The physical state I was in after recovering from pneumonia.
On my wrist was the 
Citizen Pro-master D120,
which I used to time my 'escape' from the medical center.

And then, it was the time when 'A' level results will be released. Coming from neighborhood schools, I wasn't gifted academically as well. Yet strangely, I was posted to be with the scholar platoon in BMT! On the actual day of result release, my entire platoon was given the permission to return to our respective Junior Collages to collect our results. Upon return, I witnessed the full spectrum of emotions on my comrade's faces; joyful, relieved, nonchalant, sad, depressed. Having failed mine terribly, I was hoping to seek comfort by approaching the depressed. I asked 1 of them, "Why are you so sad? How did you fair?" He replied, "3 As and a B, no distinction for both special papers. I'm not going to make it to medicine faculty I've been working so hard for..." 

If 3 As and a B is something to weep for, I was really curious to find out what 'happiness' is; I approached one of the joyful ones, and he answered, "2 As and 2 Bs! Happy because it is good enough for medicine faculty." "Wait a minute." I asked, "Our friend over there who scored 3 As and a B believe he is not good enough to read medicine, yet you are sure you'll be accepted?" He explained, "Oh, I'm privileged to have my parents and grandparents as medical doctors themselves. With the affiliation, I'm pretty sure I'll be accepted."

Life is not fair, but at least for myself, I know it is fair for the amount of effort (or rather the lack of it) I've put into my course work; I deserve failing. At that point in time, it suddenly hit me that I've wasted 2 years in Junior College without earning myself the certification; I set myself 2 years back as an overaged 'O' level graduate. There isn't many options opened to me, and my parents can't afford to send me to oversea colleges. The feeling of lost and fear was overwhelming. As I stared into the blank, tears started rolling down the corner of my eyes. My buddy, Kong Mun Wai noticed my expression and asked, "Are you ok? How's your results?" I whispered, "2 Ds and a E, I couldn't even get a full 'A' level certificate..." After some comforting words, he encouraged me to disrupt from National Service and go back to school, give myself a second chance and retake the examinations. As we studied the same subjects, he even offered to tutor me over the weekends whenever he is out of camp! Weekends are the most precious thing to a National Service man, they are priceless to the point that it's often used as a threat by trainers to put us on our toes, yet my buddy is willing to sacrifice his for me!

My BMT buddy, Kong Mun Wai (left).
Even though we've lost contact, and I
couldn't find him on any social media,
his name, kindness and encouragement

will always be remembered.

His gesture marks the 1st turning point of my life; the concept of selflessness and responsibility. I vouched, I'll never waste any (second) chance if I'm given one, because what I receive will always be at the expense of someone else's opportunity; a privilege that should never be sacrificed in vane.

Lives move on quickly for the rest of my platoon mates; all of them pass-out from BMT with promising futures ahead. Not able to 'graduate' from Junior College and BMT, as I could not complete the military tests while I was hospitalized, I was the only one left behind. Sad it might be, but it is also one of the most memorable time of my life; the experience of true friendship and brotherhood, Mun Wai taught me precious lessons and philosophy which I carry with me till today. Life is never about us and our achievements, it is what we can do to better someone else's life that brings true meaning to living...

Wednesday, 1 July 2015

Bowed to the Emperor, Tuna

3 months ago over lunch, a colleague and a good friend of mine mentioned out of the blue, "How do you find the Seiko Emperor Tuna?" Knowing I'm a watch enthusiast, he was half expecting me to give him my opinion of it, immediately. I'm pretty knowledgeable about the Seiko brand; how they thrived during the quartz crisis, invented the Kinetic movement, and in more recent years, the Spring Drive hybrid mechanical movement. 

I can wax lyrics about their ingenious Kinetic Versions 1 and 2; how physical wrist movement is used to generate and store electricity (much like winding spring of a mechanical movement) to power the quartz movement, and how Version 2 stopped the hands motion in power save mode to conserve battery charge for a longer "power reserve". Spring Drive is Seiko's answer to mechanical movements; it has all the components of a traditional mechanical movement except for the escapement. Instead of using pallet wheel and lever to regulate the discharge of spring force to power the balance wheel, Spring Drive uses a electro-magnetic system to regulate the 'speed' of the "balance wheel". The amount of "braking" applied to the balance wheel is regulated by electronics, which ensures greater accuracy without the conventional jittery second hands, compared to those (mechanical) even of high beat rates.

I can go on and on and on about Seiko movements (and some of their watches in the Grand series), but I've not heard of the Emperor Tuna! What the hack is that I thought, and humbly in true honesty, I admitted to him that I know nuts about it. He began to share his soft spot for dive watches, and his collection of the Seiko Orange Monster, but the one he values most is the Vostok 'Putin' that his wife bought him.

Seiko SKX781 'Orange Monster'
Dive Watch

Love, Pride & Joy... The Vostok 'Putin'
(picture taken 18th March 2015, at lunch)

It was very refreshing to hear from a hardcore cyclist talking about his love for watches. 3 months since, I've dug deep into the history of Seiko dive watches. Indeed, they stood the test of time from 1965, with proven reliability and precision endorsed by Japan Antarctic Research Expeditions. The Emperor Tuna is their latest incarnation of the Prospex sea series; double structured titanium case that withstand in excess of 4000m under water (tested) without the need for a helium escape valve!

Seiko Prospex 'Emperor Tuna' SBDX011
Marine Master

For a good 3 months, whenever I discover something worth mentioning about the Emperor Tuna, I'll share with him. The desire of getting one himself builds over the duration till 2 days back; it chanced upon him that it is available in Yodobashi Yokohama! With the strong Singapore dollar and tax free shopping, even with his favorite watch (the gift from his wife) on his wrist, his resistance to temptation is weaken further.

First encounter with the 'Emperor Tuna' in person

Decision decision, 24 hours later, he gave in to fate and bought the watch; a well earned and deserving gift for himself I would say. Incidentally, despite his new toy, he took a picture and sent me what meant to him the most; the watch from his wife. As he took it off, getting ready for bed, the buckle pin broke! Even without him saying explicitly, I can tell the sadness from his tone of whatsapp messages.

Officially a new toy

Same pose, same love, just a different toy
(picture taken 30th Jun 2015)

Still the most beloved

Heart breaks

Heart broken

Material things, no matter how sturdy they are, will leave us one day. What matter most is the memories of it and all the love packed within... Love your new watch, but love your wife more, was what resonates with him as I speak...